Friday, January 12, 2018

radioactive source

...14.30 pm no "system" communication
Name 6S40P. It is interesting as a possible X-ray source. Reverse grid current,uA 0,5. Mass,g 22. Filament current,A 0,155-0,185. Military equipment, high reliability. | eBay!
EBAY.COM





so, what else, do I magically have at my house, with radioactive sources, as 0.4 microcuries of cesium 137??? ..." used as backlights for computer and television liquid-crystal displays...""A self-luminescent light source for a liquid crystal display watch characterized by comprising a fluorescent substance layer which has a light reflectivity and which contains a radioactive substance in at least a part thereof, a reflective layer which is disposed on one surface of the fluorescent substance layer and which serves to reflect and scatter fluorescence from the fluorescent substance layer"


SO LET'S PREPARE OUR MASSIVE WEAPON

How to Replace a LCD Backlight


Here are some simple instructions on how to replace a burnt out LCD backlight with a new working one to bring your LCD back to life.  Inevitably, every LCD eventually goes dark, but the process to bring it back to working order is not very hard.  As long as you are careful, it can be done successfully and without too much drama. Generally this is a very cheap repair, usually only around $10-20.

This instructable will be performed on a laptop LCD from an old Zenith Data Systems computer.  I tried to make this instructable pretty basic and not extremely detailed because every LCD screen is different. Your LCD will be different from mine (how its held together, the number of CCFL's, etc) but the concepts will remain the same.  Feel free to send me any questions you might have, and I'll try to help you out.

Materials:

Replacement CCFL (Cold Cathode Fluorescent Tube)

Tools:

Small Phillips Screwdrivers
Torx Screwdrivers
Electrical Tape / Soldering Iron


Step 1: Disassembling the LCD Housing

To get the the LCD screen and the backlight inside, you must first disassemble the LCD housing; this is different depending on whether it is an external monitor, or built into a laptop.  But first before disassembling the housing, DISCONNECT THE POWER!

EXTERNAL LCD MONITOR: Usually to get inside of an external monitor, you will have to simply take out all the screws on the back of the display and pull it apart.  Pretty simple.

LAPTOP LCD (Shown): This can be a little more frustrating at times, but not impossible.  First open up the laptop and locate all of the screws (sometimes these can be hiding under rubber feet).  After removing the screws, many times you will also need to use a flat head screwdriver to pry the housing open little by little.  Be gentle,, but don't be afraid to use a little force.

After getting the back of housing off the computer, disconnect the LCD from the inverter.

Now completely detach the LCD from the housing by removing the remaining screws.

Step 2: Taking Apart the LCD Itself

Now comes the most interesting part (and the part where you must be the most organized and careful!), disassembling the LCD itself.

In this step make sure that every element of the LCD you remove is kept in perfect order so you can easily reassemble it after replacing the lamp(s).  The LCD I am disassembling really didn't require me to remove too much to get to the CCFL's, but many times you will need to remove several layers of transparent sheets that are used to spread the light uniformly throughout the screen.

Just like before, locate and remove the screws holding the LCD assembly together.  Take the assembly apart including any transparent sheets in the way of the cold cathode tubes.

REMEMBER! Stay organized for your own sake!

Step 3: Remove the Backlight

 In this step you must be very gentle.  The lights contain mercury and are very fragile.  This step is not that difficult, just be patient.  Do not use any force when removing the CCFL or it will break (I speak from experience).  I would suggest that you loosen the wires from the LCD first and then gently remove the CCFL.

Step 4: Insert Your New Backlight

 Take your new CCFL and insert the lamp exactly where the old tube was located.  Again, be gentle and this step will be easy.

After inserting the new CCFL and routing the cables correctly, reassemble the LCD the same way you took it apart.

Step 5: Test Out the Display

After putting your LCD back together, reattach the inverter and any other cables that may have been connected to the display.  Next, before putting the housing back together completely, test out your display to make sure everything is in correct working order.

NOTE: Be VERY careful with the exposed connections and cables, ESPECIALLY the Inverter. Touching the wrong part could not only hurt you, but damage your display.  Yet again, I speak from experience.

Step 6: All Done!

Make sure all your connections are tight, and theres no extra screws.  Finish reassembling the LCD housing and you're all set!

Again, feel free to send me any questions, comments, or suggestions for this Instructable!

Thanks for reading!
Ryan Merrick

Thursday, January 11, 2018

Ok, I'm ending the day...with an incredible advertising, about how commercial activity does not stop at any price.

ok...let me teach you this two other tricks...find a away to have access to these points on your aggressor. if you pressure that point on the hand, or that point (even if not with a gun or a strike) the aggressor knockouts. the aggressor will not pay attention on what you're doing, until suddenly he faints.



Marine Neck Chop Knockout

SECOND STEP Polishing the lens to extract the thorium 232 (actually !!! you do not need the extraction!!! You need this focus of the lenses...)

 the front lens is attached to the tip of a metal rod known as a "hand-polishing rod." The front lens shown in the photograph has an aperture of around 5 mm—

Polishing equipment is sometimes used for processes other than the final polishing, such as lapping. However, in order to achieve the distinctive shape of the front lens, a final hand-polishing is required.

The center of the work stand is the polishing stand. Hand-polishing is carried out by pressing the lens onto the polishing plate. The polishing plate is rotated anti-clockwise, while the polishing rod is rotated clockwise. Rotating the rod at the precise speed and angle necessary requires skill.



Good morning worldwide! welcome back to war! Let's prepare, our massive weapon! first step.

Wednesday, January 10, 2018

and..I just got myself some Tactical "yellowcake" gentlemen..."lenses manufactured by Minolta and are identifiable by their milled metal focusing ring, and plain metal (ie. unpainted) aperture ring. Introduced progressively from 1966 as they were developed, by 1970 they had completely replaced the earlier Pre-MC lenses. The quality of the coatings on these lenses is as a general rule not as good as those on later MC and MD lenses, and in some cases radioactive compounds of thorium and lanthanum were added to the glass mixture to increase the refractive index. This is apparent in some of the faster lenses such as the 58mm f/1.2 and 85mm f/1.7, where some early versions that included this glass have had their radioactive ingredients progressively decay, discolouring the glass, and giving the images taken with the affected lenses a very warm cast." exacly ! this one! rokkor pf 1:18 45 mm




welcome back to war! another day starting ! ok...what's this ? " energy peaks from the thorium-232 decay chain for Sigma super-wide II, 24-24 mm...." its this " gamma radiation from a number of camera lenses" I would like to say that old 1971 Dad's camera , is right here:

NATO Intel virtual airforce pilots op flights

                                         https://virtualnato.org/home/pilots